sub frame connectors
Moderators: FAOA Administrators, FAOA Moderators
-
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 11:18 am
- Location: kingston ont.
sub frame connectors
I was wondering what was better to get the bolt in type or the weld in type from SLP. Either one as far as Im concerned is a positive step towards protecting the car from twisting. I feel that the bolt in is qiuck and easy. Has any one purchased these or other types and what are your thoughts.
2002 firehawk EH!
2002 firehawk EH!
bzshiftn
- sleepinghawk
- Posts: 721
- Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2005 8:23 pm
- Location: Fredericksburg,Va
Re: sub frame connectors
I bought the slp bolt on's. Before I put them on I used that stuff that is used in pick up truck's bed liner, Herculiner. I had read where a guy had a problem with the rust where the bolts went in the middle. So far it has helped a great deal in my case with no rust not even scratching thru to get to slp's paint. They help on squeaks and rattles, and a great way to jack your car up quickly! All the suspension mod's that have been done and even the go mod's on my car would have been a breeze with a car lift and a 2nd person. I have no complaint's about them. I'm glad I went with the bolt on's instead.
-
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 11:18 am
- Location: kingston ont.
Re: sub frame connectors
Hey thanks for your input! I was going to go ahead with the bolts ins before but I wanted to hear what others had done. You want to make sure you do it right the first time, these cars are our pride!!!! What other mods did you do to the suspension?
2002 Firehawk EH!
2002 Firehawk EH!
bzshiftn
- sleepinghawk
- Posts: 721
- Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2005 8:23 pm
- Location: Fredericksburg,Va
Re: sub frame connectors
They say the weld ins are the best, but for me it didn't matter. I wanted the easiest that I could do in my driveway as far as the Subframe connectors go.
The suspension mods are
SLP Strut Tower Brace
SLP Subframe Connectors
UMI Tubular Lower Control Arms
UMI Tubular Panhard Bar
BMR 32mm front(solid) Sway Bar
BMR 22mm rear(solid) Sway Bar
BMR Torque Arm
I spent alot of time reading and researching what people had and what people liked and dis liked. I also had to weed out the ones that were too young to give good in put vs the ones who had their set ups for years. Most were for the track where my mods are not for the track. I put non adjustable LCA's, TArm, Panhard Bar,. I love the way the Hawk handles and rides, I just wanted to replace things especially after I saw how worn out my sway bar bushing's were. I did all the suspension up grades to the Hawk in my driveway by myself, with pictures in the FQuick site.
The suspension mods are
SLP Strut Tower Brace
SLP Subframe Connectors
UMI Tubular Lower Control Arms
UMI Tubular Panhard Bar
BMR 32mm front(solid) Sway Bar
BMR 22mm rear(solid) Sway Bar
BMR Torque Arm
I spent alot of time reading and researching what people had and what people liked and dis liked. I also had to weed out the ones that were too young to give good in put vs the ones who had their set ups for years. Most were for the track where my mods are not for the track. I put non adjustable LCA's, TArm, Panhard Bar,. I love the way the Hawk handles and rides, I just wanted to replace things especially after I saw how worn out my sway bar bushing's were. I did all the suspension up grades to the Hawk in my driveway by myself, with pictures in the FQuick site.
Re: sub frame connectors
bolt ons can be unbolted.
to remove welded, for whatever reason, is more mess.
to remove welded, for whatever reason, is more mess.
2002 T/A Firehawk Convertible #0796 BlackEbonyBlack 6-spd, WI Plate "OH2 HAWK"
GM: TCS, Hurst, 12CD, Last of the Breed
SLP: Bilstein, Chromes, Cover, Floor Mats, Rear Deck Mat, Portfolio
SLP After: Skip-shift Eliminator, Customized Rear Deck Mat
GM: TCS, Hurst, 12CD, Last of the Breed
SLP: Bilstein, Chromes, Cover, Floor Mats, Rear Deck Mat, Portfolio
SLP After: Skip-shift Eliminator, Customized Rear Deck Mat
-
- Posts: 315
- Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2002 4:37 am
- Location: Dallas, Texas
- Contact:
Re: sub frame connectors
Why would anyone ever want to remove them? With the welded ones, you don't have to worry about them coming lose.02hawk796 wrote:bolt ons can be unbolted.
to remove welded, for whatever reason, is more mess.
Chuck Stong
94 #307, 383 setup for roadracing and with an audiophile quality sound system
94 #307, 383 setup for roadracing and with an audiophile quality sound system
- TransAmer99
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 2:26 pm
- Location: 281 - Spring, TX
Re: sub frame connectors
I haven't installed mine yet (I have a pair for my 2nd Gen and am about to order some for my 'Hawk). But I'm going with bolt-ons. The theory being that once they're welded, they had better be true and straight. If there is any misalignment between the front and rear prior to installation, welding them locks in that misalignment.
So I plan to bold them in, drive it for a while and check for movement or slippage. Once I'm satisfied everything is trued up, I'll probably get them welded for additional strength. At this point though, I'm not terribly concerned about that as I do not race the cars. My primary goal is preservation and these will not only strengthen the car and improve handling, but also help prevent body sag over time.
If there are any future upgrade plans that involve removing the front subframe, it is probably better to have bolt-ins. Because cutting the welds will likely require getting a new set of SFC's.
I do have a question, however: Are the SLP SFC's for 4th Gens designed to connect in the middle with a separate driveshaft safety hoop? I was browsing the catalog and, while no mention was made, it looked like the center tabs would join up with the hoop, making a fully triangulated frame.
--jim--
So I plan to bold them in, drive it for a while and check for movement or slippage. Once I'm satisfied everything is trued up, I'll probably get them welded for additional strength. At this point though, I'm not terribly concerned about that as I do not race the cars. My primary goal is preservation and these will not only strengthen the car and improve handling, but also help prevent body sag over time.
If there are any future upgrade plans that involve removing the front subframe, it is probably better to have bolt-ins. Because cutting the welds will likely require getting a new set of SFC's.
I do have a question, however: Are the SLP SFC's for 4th Gens designed to connect in the middle with a separate driveshaft safety hoop? I was browsing the catalog and, while no mention was made, it looked like the center tabs would join up with the hoop, making a fully triangulated frame.
--jim--
Re: sub frame connectors
Because after you sell it, you never know what the "next" guy wants or doesn't want on it. If I was in the market for a collectable vehicle years down the road, I'd want the option to revert it back to showroom stock, and anything permanant would make it that much harder, thus less desirable for me. That being said, I went with the bolt-ons within the first year I had it.Chuck Stong wrote:Why would anyone ever want to remove them? With the welded ones, you don't have to worry about them coming lose.02hawk796 wrote:bolt ons can be unbolted.
to remove welded, for whatever reason, is more mess.
-
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 11:18 am
- Location: kingston ont.
Re: sub frame connectors
Thanks to everybody for replying. The only reason for possible sub frame removal could be an accident? Other than that I cant see why or you were to sell the car. As far as the subframe alotment for drive shaft loops I dont know yet. I am not going to worry about it until the time comes. If need to I will custom make two loops 6" from both u-joints and install them.
2002 Firehawk EH!
2002 Firehawk EH!
bzshiftn
Re: sub frame connectors
Dingdingdingdingding - we have a winner!!som2002 wrote:Because after you sell it, you never know what the "next" guy wants or doesn't want on it. If I was in the market for a collectable vehicle years down the road, I'd want the option to revert it back to showroom stock, and anything permanant would make it that much harder, thus less desirable for me. That being said, I went with the bolt-ons within the first year I had it.Chuck Stong wrote:Why would anyone ever want to remove them? With the welded ones, you don't have to worry about them coming lose.02hawk796 wrote:bolt ons can be unbolted.
to remove welded, for whatever reason, is more mess.
For some, decreasing the value and marketability of their vehicle is not the highest priority.
Some, who like car shows, know that "modified" throws a monkey wrench into things.
2002 T/A Firehawk Convertible #0796 BlackEbonyBlack 6-spd, WI Plate "OH2 HAWK"
GM: TCS, Hurst, 12CD, Last of the Breed
SLP: Bilstein, Chromes, Cover, Floor Mats, Rear Deck Mat, Portfolio
SLP After: Skip-shift Eliminator, Customized Rear Deck Mat
GM: TCS, Hurst, 12CD, Last of the Breed
SLP: Bilstein, Chromes, Cover, Floor Mats, Rear Deck Mat, Portfolio
SLP After: Skip-shift Eliminator, Customized Rear Deck Mat
Re: sub frame connectors
i went with bolton subframes for the reason mentioned above if/when I go to sell the car it can be put 100% back to stock if the next owner wants to. not to mention i have heard that insurance companies consider weld on subframes to be "frame damage" I don't know how true that is, but I have heard that from a couple different people.
-
- Posts: 315
- Joined: Fri Mar 22, 2002 4:37 am
- Location: Dallas, Texas
- Contact:
Re: sub frame connectors
Hmm, I never worry about the next guy. Most people are never going to look under the car and even if they did, they won't know that its not stock. Those that do would WANT a car that has subframe connectors since the car will have fewer rattles. The only exception I can think of is for a completely stock car with no miles.som2002 wrote:Because after you sell it, you never know what the "next" guy wants or doesn't want on it. If I was in the market for a collectable vehicle years down the road, I'd want the option to revert it back to showroom stock, and anything permanant would make it that much harder, thus less desirable for me. That being said, I went with the bolt-ons within the first year I had it.
Chuck Stong
94 #307, 383 setup for roadracing and with an audiophile quality sound system
94 #307, 383 setup for roadracing and with an audiophile quality sound system
-
- Posts: 2629
- Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2002 2:46 pm
- Location: Kearney, NE
Re: sub frame connectors
I put my 'bolt-on' SLP SFC's on about two years ago, & have only put a few thousand miles on the car since then. When installing, I torqued every to the noted specifications.
Last month while I had the car up in the air, I checked the bolts & they were all still where they were originally set.
Not saying that they wouldn't loosen up anywhere else on aother car, but it didn't happen here.
For someone who wants to install at home, & doesn't have a welder, Bolt-on is an easier method. And removeable if absolutely necessary if the car is sold, or wrecked, or, ...
So, to each their own, ..., Coke or Pepsi?
Last month while I had the car up in the air, I checked the bolts & they were all still where they were originally set.
Not saying that they wouldn't loosen up anywhere else on aother car, but it didn't happen here.
For someone who wants to install at home, & doesn't have a welder, Bolt-on is an easier method. And removeable if absolutely necessary if the car is sold, or wrecked, or, ...
So, to each their own, ..., Coke or Pepsi?
Re: sub frame connectors
Pepsi please!
....oh, and just to keep this post more relevant, I've got bolt ons as well!
....oh, and just to keep this post more relevant, I've got bolt ons as well!
2001 NBM T/A Firehawk Convertible
All GM options, MN6
SLP options - Bilstein, Auburn, Chrome Wheels, Cover, Portfolio, Personalized Mat
Custom FRC's & head plate, DG SFC's & STB, Loudmouth II
All GM options, MN6
SLP options - Bilstein, Auburn, Chrome Wheels, Cover, Portfolio, Personalized Mat
Custom FRC's & head plate, DG SFC's & STB, Loudmouth II