Axle seal leaking

[sleepinghawk]

Did a little search tonight on ls1 tech and will probably do alot more this weekend, but was wondering if anyone here has done their Hawks for the axle seals? I have ordered the 2 bearings, 2 seals, for both sides,rear gasket also. My driver side rear axle is leaking and I added 1 1/2 bottles tonight. I had new Moser axle's and new bearings installed in 06. My sign was gear oil on the inside of the wheel. Thanks

[TTOP350]

Stock 10 bolt I'm guessing?
If the seal is leaking its not a big deal. Seals fail all the time. Its just a pain when it needs fixed and cleaned up.
When installing the new seal, make sure its driven in straight/ flat also make sure the housing is smooth and bur free so the outside seals well.. Use a seal driver or a block of wood.
I would just replace the leaking seal, inspect the axle(s) for pitting/scoring and put it back together if they are ok. If the axles are pitted replace the bearings and axles.
There is a bearing called "the axle saver" that works ok if you don't want to replace bad axles.

[sleepinghawk]

Stock 10 bolt I'm guessing?
If the seal is leaking its not a big deal. Seals fail all the time. Its just a pain when it needs fixed and cleaned up.
When installing the new seal, make sure its driven in straight/ flat also make sure the housing is smooth and bur free so the outside seals well.. Use a seal driver or a block of wood.
I would just replace the leaking seal, inspect the axle(s) for pitting/scoring and put it back together if they are ok. If the axles are pitted replace the bearings and axles.
There is a bearing called "the axle saver" that works ok if you don't want to replace bad axles.

Yes it is stock. Yes you are correct, that's what everyone is telling me about the seals. It's just a crock, that when I had the new axles, bearings and seals put in back in 06 with new gears, cause the axle's were pitted, I hoped that the seals would have lasted longer. Bad part is that I really don't know how long it's been leaking, other than when I first painted the inside of the wheels, that was my first sign and dumb me thought it was just excess grease from when I had greassed it and some heated up and dropped on the wheel.
I'm getting my ducks in a row as far as what I need and a seal driver is something I'm picking up tomorrow. Thanks for the input.
The axles I hope are ok, but any bad signs and I'll order new ones again. I'm replacing the bearings anyway for insurance, that's why I'm doing the other side also. Thanks TTOP350

[02hawk0039]

Here's what happens if you go over the specified torque spec for the crush sleeve...for the pinion seal anyway...

I didn't make it 2 miles and crusing at 50mph the most horrific sounds, smell and jolt came...

[BLACK-HAWK]

yup, mine's spent more time on the back of a flat bed then the road( 2 blown transmissions, 2 valve spring failures, 2 clutches, 1 rear end... good times and thank you god for AAA!) which by the way i highly recommend becoming a AAA member for all Hawk owners. Next to their out standing roadside assistance benefits they offer all sorts of discounts such as hotels, food, amusement parks, discounted movie tickets, and many many more! ... axle bearings are fun! if you don't know what you are doing with setting back lash I would take it to a professional.

[Black Robe]

Just to make it clear to people who haven't done this job before...

The axle seals can be done without any rear diff set-up work. You do need to pull all the brakes off both sides to allow the axles to be removed/replaced (just tie the calipers up while you work), and you do need to take the rear cover off and deal with the messy gear oil. Removing the axles will require a magnet to remove the C clips from the inner ends of the axles, after you tap them inboard to reveal them after removing the cross-pin.

If you are good with the correct tools it will be a 3 hour job at home. faster with air tools and a hoist of course.

Now the pinion seal is another matter...