Jet fan switch for '94 LT-1

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Hawk85
Posts: 25
Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 10:08 am
Location: Pearland, TX

Jet fan switch for '94 LT-1

Post by Hawk85 » Thu Aug 16, 2012 1:02 pm

I am having issues with my Firehawk overheating while sitting still. I have replaced the thermostat, looked at the water pump, and everything seems to be in order. So, I went ahead and purchased the JET fan switch that is supposed to be installed into the cooling jacket between plugs 6 and 8.

Simple enough...right?

Yeah, not so much. I have no idea how to even get the leverage to get the plug out (even if I did have the 5/16" steel tube to remove the plug with). I guess my question is, is there an easier way to go about doing this, or am I going to have to unbolt the engine and raise it up - similar to what I had to do for the spark plugs.

Unfortunately, I can not find anyone in the Houston area that is willing to install it for me.

Thanks in advance...
1994 Firehawk #085

lakeratiam
Posts: 350
Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 12:54 am
Location: The Land of Oz

Re: Jet fan switch for '94 LT-1

Post by lakeratiam » Thu Aug 16, 2012 11:31 pm

A lot easier to do from underneath if you drop the Y pipe. Are the cooling fans running properly and when they should? What thermostat are you running? Are you overheating sitting in traffic jams or staging lanes? Or just anytime? Are you racing and not using anti freeze? Have you followed the proper procedure for filling the radiator? ie; using the "bleeder screws" on the coolant hoses in the proper order? Several things affect your cooling system's ability to do it's job, and if any one item is out of whack, the Jet switch will be a waste of time and money. Just saying................ :wink: Check these 3 links out, they may help. http://www.firebirdnation.com/forums/to ... on-an-lt1/ Also see http://shbox.com/1/fan_switch_wires.jpg Also see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11170
I'm EVERYWHERE Dragan! :lol:

lakeratiam
Posts: 350
Joined: Sun May 22, 2011 12:54 am
Location: The Land of Oz

Re: Jet fan switch for '94 LT-1

Post by lakeratiam » Thu Aug 23, 2012 7:11 pm

Saw the first link may not work all of the time so here is the info from it.

Bleeding the Cooling System on an LT1


Written by Charles O'Toole


Overheating is systemic to these cars when they have not been serviced correctly. If overheating, dumping coolant, etc. are problems after a coolant change or water pump replacement, follow these steps and see if that solves the problem. You willl need 50/50 mix of water and whatever coolant is used in your engine. Maybe a coupla quarts in a plastic pail and use a small glass or measuring cup, and a funnel to keep from spilling it everywhere. (Note: do NOT mix coolant types, i.e., orange with green.)

1. Wait till the engine is cold, and pull the radiator cap. Check the cap, has the seal deteriorated? If so, replace the cap.

2. Pack a whole bunch of rags around the distributor to protect it from any chance of leaking coolant on it. Poke the rags everywhere and watch out for the belt!

3. Loosen both bleed screws about 1 turn--they don't have to be real loose to bleed air.

4. With the radiator cap off, engine off and engine is COLD, fill the radiator reservoir to the top--don't overfill it. Watch for coolant coming out of the bleed screws. If solid coolant comes out, then close the screws--easy does it, just lightly snug will seat the screws. If the coolant is already to the top of the radiator neck, then skip this step.

5. Close both bleed screws.

6. Cap still off, turn on the engine and let it idle.

7. Watch the coolant level go down, as it does, fill to the top of the reservoir, just below that little overflow pipe in the radiator neck.

8. Open the bleed screw closest to the throttle body, but only a bit, and see if any air bubbles come out. Look for actual solid coolant, refill the radiator if the level goes down a bit in the radiator neck. If a slight solid stream of coolant comes out (look very closely--doesn't take much), then close the bleed screw (make sure no bubbles, just a solid stream). DO NOT loosen the bleed screw closest to the radiator and farthest from the throttle body (if you do, the coolant level in the radiator will instantly rise and coolant will go everywhere). Make sure that the coolant level is just below the overflow pipe in the radiator neck.

9. Watch that the coolant does not overflow the radiator neck as the engine heats up or there will be coolant spilled everywhere, so do this quickly. The engine should stay cold and the thermostat does not have to open.

10. As soon as you are sure that the radiator reservoir is filled to just below the overflow tube, install the cap and tighten it.

11. Turn off the engine.

12. Check the level in the plastic overflow reservoir with the installed dipstick. If needed, fill it to the HOT mark.

13. With this done, pull all the rags from around the distributor and wipe all the leaked coolant from everything.

The final step is to drive the car for a few hot and cold cycles and then fill up the overflow tank as needed till the coolant is at the COLD mark when the engine is cold.
I'm EVERYWHERE Dragan! :lol:

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