clutch problem

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jzava50
Posts: 76
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Location: Liverpool,NY

clutch problem

Post by jzava50 » Tue Mar 18, 2014 5:14 pm

common issue with these f-bodies :?: ..... is there an easier way to change the fluid than the "drill mod" :twisted: ? I have heard of the "turkey baster" mod ??
~2002 TRANS-AM FIREHAWK
~PEWTER METTALIC
~#0078
~24K MILES
~6 SPEED
~CAMMED
~SLOTTTED AND DRILLED ROTORS
~BMR SUB FRAMES
~AUBURN REAR DIFF - HARDENED 3:73
~SLP LONG TUBES
~OFF ROAD PIPE
~LOWERED 1 1/2 INCH
~DYNO TUNED
~389 hp AT THE REAR WHEELS

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sleepinghawk
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Re: clutch problem

Post by sleepinghawk » Tue Mar 18, 2014 7:50 pm

I just finished doing a new LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Tick speed bleeder, new OEM slave. I used the mighty vac. The turkey thing will work just as good. I changed out my old fluid to new amsoil clutch fluid.
So just suck out what you can then just bleed the hell out of it to get the old fluid out and the new in it's place. The drill mod was suppose to help on getting more fluid thru the MC but according to everything I read and seen, it does not solve the problem. Only some cases it helped.
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slowbird780
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Re: clutch problem

Post by slowbird780 » Wed Mar 19, 2014 1:27 am

Bite the bullet and get the tick speed bleeder line. You have to take the trans out to install it on the slave but its an excellent investment. I change my master fluid everytime I change my oil because it keeps the pedal feel like new and I never get the pedal that sticks down. The fluid gets dirty so fast and most do not realize it.

Firebrian
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Re: clutch problem

Post by Firebrian » Tue Apr 15, 2014 10:11 am

I used the turkey baster method when I first got my car. It had 12K miles and the fluid had never been touched. It was pretty dark. 4 or 5 exchanges of the M/C reservoir (30 min) and it was clean as a whistle. 2 years and 3K miles later it's still clean as a whistle.

redhawk
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Re: clutch problem

Post by redhawk » Tue Apr 15, 2014 12:54 pm

Just rolled over 7K this past weekend and I've never touched the clutch fluid. Just curious how it would get dirty. I assume it would only get dirty from use, correct?
2002 Trans Am Firehawk Vert #25 Red w/Ebony Interior w/M6 1 of 19 built
2002 Trans Am Firehawk T-top #162 Sunset Orange Metallic w/Camel Interior 1 of 7
1978 Trans Am Martinique Blue w/Black Deluxe Interior Owned since 7/82

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sleepinghawk
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Re: clutch problem

Post by sleepinghawk » Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:02 pm

redhawk wrote:Just rolled over 7K this past weekend and I've never touched the clutch fluid. Just curious how it would get dirty. I assume it would only get dirty from use, correct?
I would have to say yes, with use.When I looked in my fluid container, I was shocked at all the black crud in it. After searching on LS1Tech for weeks, I discovered it happens to alot. I wished I had changed mine out every year. Just by using regular Dot 3 or 4 whatever it is called for. I believe I read that the crud was from the dust from the clutch. I can't remember exactly. I also removed my stock Power steering cooler, because of what I kept reading. I'm sure there are alot of owners redhawk that have no signs of the black stuff. But I had no sign at all of the problem I was about to encounter with the black crud. I thought I was doing good maint on my car also. I was wrong.
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slowbird780
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Re: clutch problem

Post by slowbird780 » Tue Apr 15, 2014 11:28 pm

sleepinghawk wrote:
redhawk wrote:Just rolled over 7K this past weekend and I've never touched the clutch fluid. Just curious how it would get dirty. I assume it would only get dirty from use, correct?
I would have to say yes, with use.When I looked in my fluid container, I was shocked at all the black crud in it. After searching on LS1Tech for weeks, I discovered it happens to alot. I wished I had changed mine out every year. Just by using regular Dot 3 or 4 whatever it is called for. I believe I read that the crud was from the dust from the clutch. I can't remember exactly. I also removed my stock Power steering cooler, because of what I kept reading. I'm sure there are alot of owners redhawk that have no signs of the black stuff. But I had no sign at all of the problem I was about to encounter with the black crud. I thought I was doing good maint on my car also. I was wrong.
You hit the nail right on the head on all of that.the cooler was used because of the wider tires on the front like the hawks, ws6s and ss(275/40r17). A cooler is a good idea but the factory is not a good design. Most people buy a $30 aftermarket one and relocate it.

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sleepinghawk
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Re: clutch problem

Post by sleepinghawk » Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:55 pm

jzava50 wrote:common issue with these f-bodies :?: ..... is there an easier way to change the fluid than the "drill mod" :twisted: ? I have heard of the "turkey baster" mod ??
The mighty vac ( like the turkey baster) as I used, is suppose to pull the fluid out of the line and not the reservoir. But when you pull it out, the fluid runs down into the line :? You have to be careful or you will get alot of air in the line. So you don't want the bowl to go empty. In order to have a Tick speed bleeder, you will have to pull the transmission out to install it. So unless your new fluid is a different color, you can't really tell when you have changed it out. Just a guessing game, but it will work.
The drill mod was to allow more fluid from the MC to the slave. I use the mighty vac to change out the power steering fluid also. I picked one up from Harbor freight real cheap.
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Firebrian
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Re: clutch problem

Post by Firebrian » Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:04 am

Brake dust from clutch operation leaks by the seals and enters into your clutch fluid. The harder you are on your clutch the more dust you'll generate and the quicker the reservoir fluid will turn from a clear honey color to nearly opaque. Guys that routinely take their cars to the track should have to do this a lot more often. The reasoning isn't any different from starting with clear engine oil and then having it turn dark black within 2,000 miles. If you don't slip the clutch very much your fluid might stay perfectly clear for many years and tens of thousands of miles.

The LS motors with T56 and clutch set collects a lot of brake dust in that bell housing area as there is no way for it to get out (ie poor design). The buildup of clutch dust gets onto hydraulic operating shafts and enters the fluid past the seals. It can eventually gum up the various clutch hydraulic actuators such that your clutch operation is severely affected. If it goes too far you might need to drop the trans and replace the clutch/actuators at significant expense. A turkey baster and a half hour of your time once every few months or years is cheap insurance. A simple inspection of the fluid costs nothing. I read the link below on clutch mechanics/operations a couple of years ago and checked mine out. If you drive aggressively, it's even more important.

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Mattie
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Re: clutch problem

Post by Mattie » Fri May 16, 2014 10:43 am

Hey Firebrian,

That was a really good video tip on the clutch fluid. I did one swap of the clutch fluid with one of those cheapo 2-stroke oil mix syringes.

Now the fluid is clean as a whistle. Simple & done.

Mattie
mattie

2000 T/A Firehawk #C15
Black, T-tops, 6spd.

Firebrian
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Re: clutch problem

Post by Firebrian » Wed May 21, 2014 7:35 pm

Mattie, glad that someone found it useful. The orig owner of my car never changed any fluids but the oil in 12 years and 12,000 miles. So when I got the car I went through everything. The clutch fluid was dark but cleaned up in 3 or 4 syringe cycles. I hope that the 12 yr old coolant didn't do some lasting damage somewhere. But, the radiator looked clean as could be once it was drained. Been 2 yrs since I last did the clutch fluid change. Maybe again this year.

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