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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2015 6:45 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Posts: 157
Location: New York
A few of you have been on board with this so I am going to get the thread started in case there are any questions. I won't actually start working on stuff until January but I'll get the pics up of how it sits now. I've already replaced the headlight motors so i won't have any pics of that until the next time they fail, but below is the plan for what I know needs to be done and the rough order I am going to go in. The car will remain essentially stock, there will be a few minor mods to some of the bolt on stuff such as headlights, radio etc (IE stuff that can easily be undone). Anything I get I will include part numbers, prices and where I got them from. Also if I outsource anything (probably the wheel restoration for one) I will let you know where I got it done.

The "List"
-Headlight upgrade
-Window alignment and sweep replacement
-Fronts Suspension
-Rear Suspension
-Speaker Replacement
-Monsoon Radio Amplifier bypass
-Misc interior stuff
- Alternator and Battery Replacement
-Modifying for double DIN radio
-Power Steering Pump Replacement
-Coil, Plug, Wire replacement
-Rocker Arm Trunion upgrade and replacement
-Subframe connector installation (bolt on)
-Rear Axle removal, upgrades, installation
-Brakes
- Fitting the Exhaust with V-Band clamps for easy removal
-Hard top Roof Panel replacement
-Wheel restoration


And at some point there will be obvious wear and tear items and rebuilds along the way, but I know these need to/will be done.

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-Nick
2001 Formula Firehawk #293


Last edited by NBrehm on Sun Mar 06, 2016 3:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2015 7:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 3:40 pm
Posts: 248
Location: Michigan
Signed on for the show!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2015 9:45 pm 
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Posts: 196
Nice hardtop Hawk! If you don't mind me asking, when did you get the car? I have kept notes of the hardtop cars that I find for sale over the past few years, and I see that this car has been advertised at least 3 times in the past 3 years.

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http://i50.tinypic.com/soxpih.jpg wrote:


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 04, 2015 11:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Posts: 157
Location: New York
I want to say July or August, I don't remember the exact date. But toward the end of the summer

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2001 Formula Firehawk #293


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 3:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Posts: 157
Location: New York
Alright, had a day off, finally got at least something started. I purchased a set of front upper and lower (OEM) control arms. I'm going to rust proof and paint them,then replace the ball joints and bushings. I decided to buy a spare set to reduce downtime for the car, but obviously if you aren't in a hurry you can re-use your originals.

Time: 1-2 Hours

Difficulty: Moderate, depending on tools.

Parts:
Upper control arms $70.00/pr, purchased on Ebay.
Lower Contorl Arms $100.00/pr, purchased on Ebay
Total for this post: $170.00

**NOTE: You can buy a ready to go upper control arm without the mount fairly cheaply from Mevotech (Part #MS501136). I've seen them as low as $45 per side with a brand new ball joint and both bushings and new hardware. I CHOSE to go this route because I am going to not only strip them bare and upgrade the quality of paint on them, but will also be putting in a higher end ball joint and polygraphite bushings for a bit more durability. So it is certainly cheaper and easier to just grab the uppers brand new from mevotech if you want to, but where is the fun in that?


http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/DSC_0006.jpg wrote:

Taking the uppers apart is pretty straight forward. First, if it is still there grab the rubber bushing that is on top of the mounting plate and don't lose it (if it is in good shape). They are getting fairly tough to find.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/DSC_0007.jpg wrote:


After that, remove the bolts that hold the control arm to the upper mount.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/DSC_0008.jpg wrote:


Once you seperate them you can either drill or grind the rivets on each ball joint and remove it. I chose to grind the heads off and hammer them out with a punch, but I am also going to be repainting. Drilling works as well but takes a bit longer
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/DSC_0012.jpg wrote:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/DSC_0010.jpg wrote:


Once you grind/drill the rivets, the ball joint will pop right out.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/DSC_0011.jpg wrote:


The bushings are a bit trickier. They aren't solid so they can be tough to get out. You can push them out with a press, or melt them out with a torch. But the way I did it (not pictured) is really hosed them down with Aerokroil and then just give them a good whack with a 5 pound hammer. Again, I am repainting so if you aren't you may want to go with the press. They can just frustrating to get even pressure on, especially when they are worn out.

I didn't have my camera with me when I did the LCA's. Big difference with them is the pressed in ball joint. I removed them and the bushings the same way I did the bushings on the uppers. Load em up with Kroil and whack em with a hammer. The smart money for the inexperienced is to buy/borrow a ball joint removal tool. Mine was on loan so I was kinda stuck. Same deal with the bushings though, they are tough because they move around. One of mine stuck to where I had to pry it out with an air hammer but the control arm, which is the only piece I am going to re-use, is no worse for wear. Keep in mind, if you do this there is a 99% chance no matter how you separate the parts all the ball joints and bushings WILL need to be replaced. End result is below. I'm out of town all week so I am going to have them dropped off and media blasted so as soon as I get them back I'll show you how to rust proof and paint them up to look better than new, and get them re-assembled.
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/DSC_0013.jpg wrote:

_________________
-Nick
2001 Formula Firehawk #293


Last edited by NBrehm on Mon Sep 19, 2016 9:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 06, 2016 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Posts: 157
Location: New York
Also, not really "Resto", but my Emblem pros TCS Panel emblem finally showed up, so I put that in as well

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/12803126_10204457044821183_1509087749439464020_n.jpg wrote:


http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/12804672_10204457044941186_7175008971882915817_n.jpg wrote:

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2001 Formula Firehawk #293


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2016 5:18 pm 
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Posts: 289
I got a tcs plate from Emblem Pros in each of my birds. Custom ordered them to be vehicle specific. They do nice work.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Posts: 157
Location: New York
It's not much, but had an afternoon off so pressed on with the front control arm resto. Ran out of time for paint but will have that soon (hopefully) and then get them put together and on the car.

Time: 1-2 Hours
Difficulty: Novice, if you have a good sand blaster (or know someone)


Cost:
Sandblasting (professional): $85.00
Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti Rust paint: $16.00/can (2 cans) part #16018Z
Total for this post: $117.00
Total Overall: $287.00

All the control arms after sand blasting
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/r270/14355679_10205630640280336_9150759998943832813_n.jpg?oh=d79e2a6aef55b30a74ff35a1801f473c&oe=59833303 wrote:


Lower control arms with anti rust paint (inside and out)
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/LCA%201.jpg wrote:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/LCA%202.jpg wrote:


Upper Control arms with Anti rust coating
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/LCA%204.jpg wrote:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/LCA%203.jpg wrote:

_________________
-Nick
2001 Formula Firehawk #293


Last edited by NBrehm on Sun May 07, 2017 10:59 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:43 pm 
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Posts: 2591
Location: The Empire State
Looks like it's coming along! One piece at a time! What part of New York?

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I'm sorry that I failed you, sorry that I failed myself. Broken wings take time to mend :(


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Posts: 157
Location: New York
Dutchess county, when/if I ever get to go there.

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2001 Formula Firehawk #293


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 05, 2005 3:59 pm
Posts: 2591
Location: The Empire State
Not toooooo terribly far from the Saratoga area.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:55 pm 
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Posts: 157
Location: New York
BLACK-HAWK wrote:
Not toooooo terribly far from the Saratoga area.


2ish hours

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2001 Formula Firehawk #293


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Posts: 157
Location: New York
LCA's are painted. Have a couple minor touch ups to do then going to give them a week or so to harden before I re-assemble them.

Time: 1 hour
Difficulty: Novice

Cost:
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black (Gloss): $18.00/can (2 cans) part #11172Z
Cost for this post: $36.00
Total Overall: $323.00

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/LCA%207.jpg wrote:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/LCA%208.jpg wrote:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/LCA%209.jpg wrote:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/nickbrehm/LCA%2010.jpg wrote:

_________________
-Nick
2001 Formula Firehawk #293


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2017 10:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 28, 2015 8:58 pm
Posts: 157
Location: New York
Getting some wrench time in finally. Nothing earth shattering. Got rid of the truck throttle body that was on there and put on a stock GM unit. Replacing the coils, brackets, coil wiring, plugs, wires, Exhaust gaskets, AIR tube gaskets, valve cover gaskets. I wasn't planning on doing any work to the exhaust but being a car that was in Chicago it was in rough shape, most of the studs broke trying to remove it so will have to pull and replace them all. Decided to change out the stock converters after some forethought instead of trying to repair the broken studs on them. I'll put them away somewhere but I figured long term Stainless was the way to go since they are easy enough to change back. Will also change out all the manifold to cat studs and will be replacing the manifold bolts with studs (so glad none broke coming out). Also found a broken PCV line that will need replacing. Going to also replace the pushrods since it is an M6. Lastly got some new front hubs. One was bad, with the mileage on them figured may as well change em both. More pics tomorrow when I start putting it back together.

Important notes:
Manifolds: I soaked down the manifold bolts and AIR tube bolts several times over a few weeks with PB Blaster to get as much rust off as I could since they are all prone to breaking. I took the valve covers off to do pushrods, but even if you aren't doing it, you get a tiny bit of extra room to reach the manifold bolts. It also helps to remove them when the engine is warm. DO NOT APPLY HEAT TO THE BOLTS!! Don't forget right behind the flange is an aluminum cylinder head!
Hubs: After you get the old hubs out make sure you clean the surface of the spindle. I start with a wire brush, then hit it with 800 grit sand paper. After that I apply anti seize to the surface of the spindle and to all the bolt holes in the new hub.
Coils: If you have never had the joy of removing the rear passenger side bolt on the coil pack bracket it is pretty much positioned where you can't reach it with basically any usual tool. I use a very short (approx 2in) ratcheting 10 mm, locking flex head box wrench. Still a pain, but it works.
Pushrods: When I do pushrods on these I do them 1 cylinder at a time. It takes a bit more time but the odds of getting a loose rocker are pretty low compared to other methods. I just turn the crank until both valves are closed, then loosen both rockers, replace the pushrods (oil them up really good) then reinstall the rockers. Being pedestal mount there is no real rocker adjustment to worry about. Just make sure the tension is off the springs and torque them to 22 Ft Lbs. I usually rotate the crank 4 or 5 times and recheck the torque

Total time: Approx 10-15 hrs
Difficulty: Moderate
Cost per part:
Plugs: $16.00 NGK TR-55
Wires: $75.00 GM 89017270
Coils: $250.00 GM 12558948
Coil Brackets: $35.00 GM 12563288
Coil wiring: $125.00 GM 12582190
Throttle Body: $200.00 GM 12589190
Manifold Studs: $108.00 ARP 434-1301
Manifold Gaskets: $18.00 GM 12617944
Air Tube Gaskets: $2.00 GM 12553617
PCV Valve/tubes: $90.00 GM 12590632
Converter Studs: $12.00 Dorman 03133
Driver Converter: $195.00 Magnaflow 23477
Pass Converter: $275.00 Magnaflow 23489
Pushrods: $100.00 Trickflow 21407400
Hubs: $230.00 Timken 513090
Valve Cover Gaskets: $0 (had on hand) GM 12637683 ($17.00 ea if you buy them)

Total Cost for this post $1731.00
Overall Cost: $2054.00


https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18341688_10207171409518604_1524275213007494760_n.jpg?oh=c7decae727852af7042a581464e271af&oe=59791DDD wrote:

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18403001_10207171409718609_8870885162617698890_n.jpg?oh=82c5780c613664f2e2468611569b5860&oe=597B2888 wrote:

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18275199_10207171409838612_2746702244900966021_n.jpg?oh=8b497dedfe566d48cd0f31ad9cde6995&oe=59B48F26 wrote:

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18402711_10207171410278623_2759755614170645356_n.jpg?oh=fc7e21b1fdbcebb0cf8d84cee52ddfbb&oe=59805A5C wrote:

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18301808_10207171410478628_265606994674472405_n.jpg?oh=5ba8605bacb1368d040040b3ee824e9f&oe=59871AFA wrote:

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18342789_10207171411158645_1097606855597927981_n.jpg?oh=74ade71368153065c90750b5d1d8f32a&oe=59763654 wrote:

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18275036_10207172239539354_239707952868684148_n.jpg?oh=2fce5aa32b6d14bcde9cc7d1d07d74b1&oe=59B265F0 wrote:

_________________
-Nick
2001 Formula Firehawk #293


Last edited by NBrehm on Tue May 09, 2017 9:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 9:12 pm 
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Posts: 157
Location: New York
Some more from the previous post

Next up was getting those pesky broken studs out of one of the manifolds. Passenger side was in great shape, but the driver side, much like the CAT, was rotten. Originally tried MAP gas and PB blaster to get them out, but the flange proved to be too thick to heat evenly with such a small torch. So out came the Oxy/Acetalyne and a pair of vice grips and about 20 mins later all the studs were removed. At this point I also chased all the threads on both manifolds (make sure you use oil!) to get them back together. Also installed new studs on the driver manifolds, obviously and used a die grinder with a sanding wheel to clean the gasket surfaces back to bare metal.
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18403146_10207175653104691_8792197862286737681_n.jpg?oh=635fac4fd1c254172512bbc11715ad8a&oe=59C2C57E wrote:

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18403565_10207175653704706_7084529144135498616_n.jpg?oh=f100ef4e378544fd2e761d3219b08e74&oe=59BF7ED1 wrote:

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18425169_10207175657824809_7591641247517087919_n.jpg?oh=9e5a74fd9d39b1248fbe6db0438d9e65&oe=5973F983 wrote:


Manifold before and after sanding
https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18301060_10207175657224794_7151932313488760239_n.jpg?oh=d2b6f6e370f3652fb1a49581884d01d7&oe=597D12B3 wrote:

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18301673_10207175657424799_8664954115015885107_n.jpg?oh=84c75f86b299e6514e3852d88b555c69&oe=59C0223A wrote:

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2001 Formula Firehawk #293


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